MWAZINDIKA NAIROBI
Dance in a trance
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
Friday, March 29, 2013
Tribute to Chinua Achebe
BEATING THE WHITE MAN AT HIS OWN GAME: THE
GENIUS OF ACHEBE.
If Chinua
Achebe had been living in Dickens’ time, he might have succeeded in selling
“Things Fall Apart” as a serial the way the great English novelist had done,
keeping a growing audience hanging on each last word, savouring it until the
next episode appeared. Because the story-telling in every chapter is so highly
skilled that it is complete in itself.
The world
mourns the passing of a great writer though he had lived more than his biblical
four-score and ten and his best work was well behind him. Africa was his life,
his being, the subject of his writing, the object of his fascination. Not just
Nigeria but Africa because he came of age at a time when there were men with
Pan-African visions like Nyerere, Nkrumah, Senghor, Kaunda and Mandela. They
knew that the boundaries drawn on the map did not represent their reality.
Without denying their own place and time, they had a sense of what linked them
historically and geographically. Like Ngugi wa Thiongo Achebe was forced to
live outside his beloved home country but anyway, the writer needs distance. He
can see things up close all right but it is those things that are further away
in space and time that exile gives him in abundance along with melancholy,
nostalgia and long-term memory.
Some have
criticised Achebe for romanticising pre-colonial times but this is a
misunderstanding. If there is nostalgia it is for a time when the society he
knew proceeded according to agreed sets of rules rather than the free-for-all
we know now. Personal preferences didn’t count. The book’s hero Okonkwo is
specially fond of his daughter Ezinma who “looked very much like her mother who
was once the village beauty. But his fondness showed on very rare occasions.”
Can she
bring him a chair to watch the wrestling? “No, that is a boy’s job.” There is
no bending of the rules. Everyone knows that.
Writers of
all races have been forced or have chosen to live elsewhere. Samuel Beckett not
only chose Paris but decided to write in French in order to deliberately “impoverish”
himself – not a negative concept but a way of stripping language to its barest
bones. But Africans were not best known for their novels. The world knew them
as oral storytellers. If there were Shakespeares buried in Timbuktu’s sands we
didn’t know about them. What Achebe did was to lift that art into a written
form and beat the white man at his own game. Soon there would come a time when
the best writing in English no longer came from “that sceptred isle” and Achebe was one of the first in that class.
We still have
so much to learn from him, most of all, in my view, from Things Fall Apart.
Ngugi may have berated him long ago for writing in the language of the
oppressor but by now there are so many “Englishes” that the criticism no longer
holds water. Achebe turned the
oppressor’s language into his own; he moulded it in such a way that it could
speak with Igbo proverbial overtones and at the same time mock the colonialist. Take the last chapter: Okonkwo has on the
spur of the moment killed an enemy messenger. Achebe doesn’t judge him; the man
was filled with rage and had been provoked beyond endurance. It’s what he had
to do at that moment. He has, like Oedipus and Agamemnon before him, shown
hubris and the author knows his Greek tragedies. Fate has its own punishment. The
next chapter begins with a visit from the District Commissioner who is looking
for Okwonkwo. The men of the village are uncharacteristically helpful.
“We can
take you where he is and perhaps your men will help us.”
The DC is
puzzled.
“One of the
most infuriating habits of these people was their love of superfluous words, he
thought.”
Of course
this is deeply ironic; Achebe knows that the art of the novel lies in multiple ironies:
from the individual sentence to the chapter to the entire edifice. It is the colonialist
whose words are superfluous. As he approaches the small crowd of weary men
looking for Okonkwo it is he who utters needless threats. “Unless they produced
Okonkwo forthwith he would lock them all up.” Had he been able to read the
scene and the mood he would have kept quiet.
Led by the
hand we arrive with the band at Okonkwo’s body hanging from a tree. (Remember
that we don’t see Oedipus gouging out his eyes at the discovery that the oracle
was right.) This is why the men have been so obliging: their custom doesn’t
allow them to bury a man who has taken his own life.
“It is an
offence against the Earth, and a man who commits it will not be buried by his
clansmen. His body is evil and only strangers may touch it. That is why we ask
your people to bring him down, because you are strangers.”
Strangers
to each other and themselves. The poor DC can’t cope: nothing in his education
has prepared him for such a moment. His way out is to reassure himself that
this is a mere “undignified detail” and his mind escapes to the book he will write about these
wretched people. Unlike Okonkwo’s lifelong friend Obierika who is filled with
rage, he feels nothing. He can only come up with abstract thoughts. This
episode in the life of a micro- civilisation “would make interesting reading.
One could almost write a whole chapter on him. Perhaps not a whole chapter but
a reasonable paragraph at any rate.” It is a magnificent irony given that the
entire trilogy let alone this book centres on Okonkwo! One can almost hear the
author chuckling quietly to himself. “One must be firm in cutting out details.”
A man who cannot feel can never produce a work of art. “The Pacification of the Primitive Tribes of
the Lower Niger” – the DC’s pompous title - form the last words of the book. There is no
need to say who is primitive.
Achebe was
equally adept at essay writing, adopting an easy conversational style which
took the reader into his confidence. His breadth of reading is formidable but
he never loses a sense of humility. In “Thoughts on the African Novel” (Hopes
and Impediments - Selected Essays 1965-87) he writes:
“What I am
saying really boils down to a simple plea for the African novel. Don’t fence me
in.”
Rejecting
the idea that the African novel is an impossibility because the genre was born
in England he continues:
“I have no
doubt at all about the existence of the African novel. This form of fiction has
seized the imagination of many African writers and they will use it according
to their different abilities, sensibilities and visions without seeking
anyone’s permission. I believe it will grow and prosper. I believe it has a
great future.”
His own
work is the proof of that.
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
Kampala's famous Kavalagala All Night Dancing
http://the-star.co.ke/news/article-107278/nightlife-kampalas-sin-cityhttp://the-star.co.ke/news/article-107278/nightlife-kampalas-sin-city
Thursday, January 17, 2013
Archived Nation articles
http://www.accessmylibrary.com/search/?q=Betty+Caplanhttp://www.accessmylibrary.com/search/?q=Betty+Caplan
Monday, January 14, 2013
The Turkish Mother
Her infinite variety. ( Anthony and Cleopatra 2.2.244)
An-ne, the
Mother, is a veritable institution in Turkey. Turks are glued to their mobile
phones not least because at some moment in the day An-ne will call and the
obedient son or daughter (mostly the latter) must be standing to attention. If
it is already late in the afternoon, the message will be, “But why haven’t you
called me? Is something wrong? Didn’t you remember I went to the doctor today?”
Anywhere – in a shopping mall, a bookstore, a cafe, comes the inevitable whine
of the needy child. “An-ne! Where are you?” The whole world dotes on these
angels who can do no wrong. Their every whim must be indulged. Christmas isn’t
anything to Muslims of course but the city is full of brightly lit trees,
effigies of the silly old man in red hat and presents. Whole floors of istanbul’s
magnificent shopping malls are devoted solely to delighting the little people. The
shops are stuffed with goodies and people pack into them as if there were no
tomorrow. It’s only the social outcasts who go in for online shopping here:
everyone else regards it as a jolly family ritual.
You might
get the impression that Turkey with its background of military coups,
nationalism and repression was a patriarchal society. Wrong. Men just look as
if they have power: in reality they exist only to serve their women. Even
modern young working people for the most part wait patiently until they have
found their marriage partners before leaving home. Naturally, double standards
exist here as men have freer rein and must sew their oats. But they do it
discreetly with god-knows-whom. Meanwhile they live at home where they are
waited upon hand and foot – food is cooked, washing and ironing done for them
and every comfort seen to. Duygu, a healthy woman in her thirties complains
that her mother won’t even let her carry anything. Ilgin has just turned 40 and
works 7 days a week to make enough money for holidays. She wouldn’t dream of
going without her mother. They live together as do so many Turkish families,
mother and daughter, bound like Prometheus. You don’t even ask about father.
When Ilgin is feeling frisky she goes with her mother to one of the many clubs
in downtown Beyoglu, the centre of Istanbul’s nightlife. There they listen
together to live music and Ilgin takes pictures of them both on her mobile
phone. Can it be satisfying? Ilgin is no fool. “I make all the decisions,” she
says, gleefully. I can see who wears the pants. Why leave this comfort for some
unknown territory where you may have to be the maid, cook and bottle-washer for
some uncertain reward?
Age cannot
wither An-ne because whole armies of hairdressers, beauticians, manicurists and
cosmetologists exist merely to preserve her long-lost youth. Only near death
will a woman let the world see her grey hair: the rest choose any colour of the
rainbow though garish pinks and greens are still only for the outlandish or
those who have just discovered punk . Mostly it is blonde, and on special
occasions like New Years Eve, the hair will be pulled and teased into girlish
sausage curls of a corn-bright yellow. The effect is that elderly men always
have young-looking things of indeterminate age in tow. (Is that his daughter,
mother or wife? You can’t tell.) And what was once a Mediterranean land of
dark-haired, olive-skinned women has now become a kind of Disneyland of Barbie
dolls.
Daddy
provides. Sinem lives in a fine apartment paid for by her father and works when
she isn’t having the vapours. She is travelling the next day and An-ne keeps
phoning. “Why don’t you take the smaller suitcase darling? You might be
overweight if you take the big one?” Such tender loving care. But Sinem doesn’t
think so. “My sisters and I have been trying to get them to divorce for years!”
she says, sighing. “They do nothing but argue and can’t stand each other.” But
of course there are the beloved children. How could they inflict such pain on
them? Sinem is beautiful, intelligent cultivated and at 38, alas, still not
married. Her lover is a dashing colonel in the army, married with children.
“When he comes it is paradise! He brings flowers, chocolates and treats me like
a princess.” The stress of it all stops her from working. But she has the kind
of job that can deal with this on-and-off commitment because there is a
hard-working male who does all the donkey work. Life has fashioned things in such
a way that she must remain a princess in a tower waiting for the frog prince to
release her. So custom doesn’t stale her
infinite variety; she is free to go to any one of Istanbul’s delectable coffee
houses, galleries or museums. She has the leisure to read and reflect. And time
still before motherhood looms or the signs of old age must submit to the wiles
of the magician.
Monday, December 10, 2012
CHILD ABUSE IS UNIVERSAL
http://www.the-star.co.ke/news/article-98380/child-abuse-universalhttp://www.the-star.co.ke/news/article-98380/child-abuse-universal
Thursday, December 6, 2012
Ataturk Lives!
In Russia
the Tsar was always referred to lovingly as Little Father; here in Turkey, Ataturk’s presence is writ large. He attracts
a different kind of worship. Each year on November 10th, the anniversary of his death in 1938 at 9.05, the
moment he last drew breath, a siren sounds and the country collectively comes
to halt for a minute. Cars hoot and drivers stand to attention. In that gorgeous wedding cake of architecture,
the Dolmabahce Palace, the clock in the room where he breathed his last is
permanently frozen at that precise minute. It doesn’t stop there, of course;
Turks love any excuse to bring out their brilliant red star- and-crescent flag adorned with the image of the father,
his head tilted upwards, his eyes gazing into the distance as if dreaming of
great things to come.
Istanbul
has some of the world’s biggest and finest shopping malls; on a day such as
this, even they pay tribute to the great white father. In Akmerkez, a gleaming
modern version of Topkapi Palace, a sacred non-commercial space has been
cleared for the occasion showing portraits of the man while a band plays his favourite tunes. Bookshops
display the many biographies of him, and lit-up panels carry quotations from
his writings. Shopaholics take a breath in between Versace and Vakko to pay
homage to a man who has never really departed. He is everywhere. Even in
private homes you will see photos of him posing like Napoleon with right hand
in jacket or dancing with one of his daughters.
Thus the
name Sabiha Gokhcen might not be given two seconds’ thought by visitors to
Istanbul’s second international airport but it is worth more than that. The
lithe young woman pictured in large black and white photographs was one of his eight
adopted daughters - possibly the
favourite - and the first female combat pilot in the world. Like father like
daughter. She had no fear of flying. I can’t help thinking of the Greek goddess
Athene springing fully born out of the head of Zeus. Ataturk was briefly
married to Latife Uşaklıgil to whom he proposed in company with his fellow
soldiers. That was the custom back then. Though it was a childless marriage, he
went on to adopt several children who came his way and appealed to him. Perhaps
Sabiha was his favourite because she followed in his footsteps and lived up to
his name.
It was in
his latter years that he fell in love with children; by then perhaps he had
tired of wars an late-night political jaw-jaws. Sabiha Gokcen was 12 when she encountered
Ataturk at a public parade. She stepped forth boldly and asked him to assist
her with school fees. He gladly obliged.
Later when
she had become a pilot, he tested her loyalty to him. She would have to hold a
loaded gun to her head and prove her love (shades of King Lear.) She did,
unflinchingly. She survived because the gun wasn’t loaded.
Who was the
real man as opposed to the saint? He died at the age of 57 of cirrhosis of the
liver. Flouting his secular version of Islam, he once called out drunkenly from
a boat on the Bosphorus, “This is raki! That’s what we drink.”
Young
people are brought up to worship him. A girl in my class who has never spoken
before waxes lyrical. “He was such a great man. He saved the country!” “From
what?” I ask. She blushes, unsure how to answer. “And what about his
alcoholism?” They all look at me
blankly. “What has that got to do with it?” They do not want their hero
besmirched especially by a foreigner. This is unnecessary, this disinterment of
his graven image and at such a time too.
They have
been sold a story which they won’t question. Certain things are sacred even to freshmen
at the “Harvard of Turkey.” No modern
leader has been able to match him. None would dare to try. The Prime Minister
makes hurried excuses and misses the celebrations.
As worries
of creeping Islamicisation abound, Ataturk -lovers cling to his revolutionary
changes: the freedom he gave to women who were among the first to vote, the
secularism, the changing of the alphabet and modernising of the language now
peppered with words borrowed from French
which the great man loved. What a relief! A few words a foreigner can grasp:
reservasyon, pardon, kuofer (coiffeur.) All spelled phonetically to boot. In
college the increasing number of girls with headscarves worries them. They see
conspiracies everywhere. There are whisperings that the great American devil is
planning a new caliphate for Turkey so that the region can be secure under his
control. “Haven’t you noticed? More religious students are being given places
on campus.” The changes that the great
man symbolised are being eaten away.
816 words
betty.caplan1@gmail.com
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